You space the loom and the peg at the distance that you want you warp to be mine was at 87 inches, plus a foot or so for the back beam tie up and the front beam tie up. It help if you put some kind of weight on the loom so that is doesn't slide towards the peg as you warp. The book suggests you clamp the loom to a table, but I'm short a table and have the loom stand so, I improvise.
The picture on the left is my warp going through the slots, when it's all said and done all my slots will have two warp threads running through them.
Then I take my yarn and put one through the heddle eye. Then I have one in the slot and one in the heddle, in the up position all the heddle eye threads are in the open shed, in the down position all the slots are in the open shed, this is done down the loom, the warped loom looks like the bottom picture.
Then I take my yarn and put one through the heddle eye. Then I have one in the slot and one in the heddle, in the up position all the heddle eye threads are in the open shed, in the down position all the slots are in the open shed, this is done down the loom, the warped loom looks like the bottom picture.
Once I got my loom all warped and tighten the back beam, I'm finally ready to start weaving, the next picture is the shawl I'm working on with some leno lace started.
2 comments:
Thank you! Taking pictures really helps. I'm now taking pictures of my warping process, and that is quite a challenge.
Great photo story!
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