(The cross needs to stay between the back beam and the heddles not rolled onto the back beam...you can roll them out and go without now that you have the heddles threaded.)
Peg in South Carolina says:
Also, are what I understand to be the lease sticks, are they buried under the warp? They need to be on top as they provide your guide for theading. They also help with tensioning the warp.
If this needs to happen then the sticks would work as guides? Not to hold the yarn to the beam? That's what I thought that I was suppose to do, tie them to the back beam and roll up. I must have missed something in the book, damn it. How do I keep them back there without rolling in, should I anchor them to the back bar (the black pvc covered thing in the pic? Do I need the raddle also or is that too much? I would like to try to re-do the warping tonight or Friday and see if I can get it right this time. I feel so dense and stupid, Thanks for the help.
4 comments:
Yes, they get attached to the space between the back beam and the heddles....google it to find a pic!
I remove my lease sticks after I get the heddles threaded and reed sleyed.
While I'm threading, I tie them to the castle and sometimes to the back beam too to keep them in position.
I commented a lot just now on your previous warping post.
You can do this. It's baffling to us all at first!!!
What book are you following???
Good luck!
Sue
I use string to suspend mine between the heddles and the back beam while I beam the warp. They stay there until you have threaded - the cross they maintain is what lets you get your threads in the right order - and then you can take them out or leave them in as you prefer. As you have already done your threading, I would use the heddles and reed to hold your yarns in order while you beam - this is basically what happens anyway if you warp from front to back rather than back to front - so you can forget about the cross and concentrate on getting a nice even tension on the warp beam.
At the end of the warp you should have 3 things inserted. A rod (can be wood, metal, round or flat) and two lease sticks. The rod gets attached to the back beam. The yarn between the rod and the lease sticks get dropped into or placed into the raddle. When you beam on, you turn the beam but keep the lease sticks on top of the warp and away from the raddle. By the time you are done, the lease sticks will be at the other end of the warp bouts and they can be handled in ways others have suggested to make it easy to thread. You can keep the lease sticks in or not when you are done threading a sleying the reed. Some weavers do. Some weavers don't. Some weavers do sometimes. Same with the raddle. I tend to leave the lease sticks in and remove the raddle. Sometimes I remove the lease sticks and leave the raddle on the back beam.
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